How to build a Treasure Chest
By Rex Rothing
Building a treasure chest can be a great project for novice or expert woodworkers. There are many styles, sizes, and materials to choose from. The skills involved can be simple or complex so almost anybody can build a treasure chest. This article will present the experience and ideas of one who has built many treasure chests of various styles, sizes, woods, and hardwares. Read on and learn more:
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Pictured above is a treasure chest made of natural Blackjack Oak with a Red Cedar bottom and tray. The olde rusty hardware is handcrafted in India. The chest measures 20" Wide X 32" Long X 28" Tall and weighs 86 pounds. See Invoice Details>>
The tricky part to making a treasure chest of this style is in sawing the parts of the curved lid. In this case, the oak is cut in strips about an inch wide and with a 5 degree angle on each side. This makes a radius of about ....?inches.
Other sizes would require a different angle cut ripped to create a different radius. About 10 degrees would make this round top chest.
Choosing the hardware is important to the look of the chest you are making. Brass plated hardware can be found in most home and hardware stores. Galvanized steel hardware is also widely available which can be painted black to give the look of cast iron. Leather straps, rope, or chain handles can be used.
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If you make the two ends and the bottom the same width, then add the sides and top, it will all be the same length. Thus, all the end grains can be sanded flush to meet the ends. All the end grain showing faces out the ends, giving that character look, with out all the details of dovetails and box joints.
You do want to rabbet in the bottom so it does not show. The end pieces are vertical grain; the bottom and around the sides and top are horizontal.
The fasteners could be screws or nails, and glue, to assemble the chest. The fasteners can be either puttied, plugged, or left exposed, depending upon the style. Clamps will help force the last final cut into place and the box is sawn open after it is assembled. Then the hardware is applied:
For the hardware consider: hinges, handles, hasps, lid support, corners, straps, and fasteners.
A good place to shop for hardware might be woodworker's and restoration catalogs. Or, the junk box in your shed, and your local flea market.
The finish can be any stain, oil, wax, varnish, urethane, epoxy, or paint depending on the style and what can be found around the shop. I've heard that recycled transmission fluid looks good on hardwoods and car wax can be applied after it sets up, but I've never tried that yet. Usually, I'd use a teak oil, danish oil, or poly-tung oil finish several coats. And sometimes wax after that.
The tray can rest on either cleats or rabbets creating a ledge on the sides The tray can project higher than the opening a little, as long as the lid will close. (make it a little smaller and round off the edges). The tray also needs to allow for the lid support to operate. Small wooden chocks can be glued in place to keep the tray confined to the center of the opening.
Any questions, comments, or requests about Treasure Chests are welcome here:
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